On August 7, 2003, my husband deployed to Iraq. On February 8, 2004, he returned safely to San Antonio. Lots of stuff happened in between those dates, both in Iraq and here in San Antonio. He survived the ever-present threat of mortar rounds, suicide bombers, and chow hall food. I survived the stress of just knowing he was in Iraq, while singularly meeting the needs of our three sons and attending to my self-described job of handling everything else. To me, then, my husband's safe return counted as one of those special occasions to truly splurge on a remarkable, yet intimate, celebratory dinner. So I made reservations at Biga on the Banks and was told gluten free would be no problem.

Reservations at any restaurant, when possible, are the best way to help ensure a good gluten-free dining experience as well as preferred seating. On the weeknight that my husband and I dined at Biga, the swirl of other couples and groups engrossed in their own dining occasion kept the place in constant motion. Yet, ensconced as we were by a flowing gauzy curtain at a semi-private table, it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. And with dusk gathering gently around the slowly shifting waters of the River Walk below, I knew this was the perfect choice for our reunion dinner.

That thought was reaffirmed when our server, Gigi, informed me which menu selections could and could not be prepared gluten free (only two of the main course items could not). She further explained that chef and owner Bruce Auden changed the menu daily according to the season and the availability of fresh ingredients. It's a sure thing, though, that the food will be prepared in a manner that's been described as elegant, bold, and contemporary.

Voted one of the “top five restaurants in Texas” by Gourmet Magazine, and a James Beard Award Nominee in 2001, 2002, and 2003, Biga on the Banks will not disappoint the gastronome. Nor will it intimidate the amateur connoisseur of good food and drink, such as myself. Taking Gigi's suggestion, I selected the shrimp appetizer. Normally prepared as a tempura, the chef instead grilled the heavily peppered shrimp and then served them on a cooling bed of plain rice noodles tossed with sweet juicy watermelon and a splash of chili sauce. As a main course, I selected lamb shank. It was supposed to be served with a side of gnocchi, a dumpling made of flour, semolina, or potatoes, but for me, the lamb was placed atop a creamy pool of garlic-mashed potatoes and accented with crisply steamed greens. I tried to eat it all but just couldn't, since I knew that an exquisite gluten-free chocolate dessert had been specially prepared for me (the benefits of the reservation!). My non-celiac husband equally enjoyed his meal of corn chowder, veal chop, and the restaurant's signature sticky toffee pudding. Still, he'd rather not have to endure another six months in Iraq before we treat ourselves to such a fine dining experience again!

Fine dining does comes with a price, however. Biga falls into the category of “very expensive” according to Frommer's Texas guidebook. Fortunately, a new special called Prelude at Biga offers a limited three-course meal for $29 per person and includes a salad, choice of two entrees, and dessert. The trick is to place your dinner order by 6:30 pm or after 9 pm. Otherwise, appetizers average $10 per order, soups and salads about $9 each, main courses from $15-36, and desserts about $8. Dinner for two, with wine, can easily run upward of $100. (MP March 2004)